The ‘Independence Day: Resurgence’ star shares his tips for looking good—from choosing top-notch polo shirts to finding a stylish alligator wallet READ NOW
Jeff Goldblum On Dressing Right
Wallets
I’ll Do It My Way
Mass customisation is on the rise. But it’s nothing new. For a couple of hundred years bespoke tailors and shoe makers have been plying their wares in the so called “Carriage Trade”.
Today’s fashion consumers are looking for greater degrees of personalisation than merely the ability to add a monogram of their initials. Nike, Adidas and RayBan are proving in the mass market that the ability to mix your own combination of colours and options is highly appealing to a broad swathe of their customers.
In the luxury market there are still only a handful of brands beginning to innovate. Late last year Salvatore Ferragamo the legendary Italian shoe maker introduced a MTO (made to order) programme for their classic men’s Driver loafers. The initiative has been highly successful and Ferragamo are considering extending the concept to other parts of their product line up.
In the small leather goods and accessories field Bianca Mosca which specialises in bespoke alligator wallets, card holders, Apple Watch bands and iPhone cases offers a full custom service on its website. Customers can choose leather colours, stitching types as well as having their initials embossed on their product. The finished product is made in their workshop in France and delivered around the world inside 28 days.
“The key thing is service and listening closely to your customers to ensure that you’re delivering what they want-not what you think they want,” said Tim de Rosen from Bianca Mosca.
Well I know what I want and given the choice I’d love to have a stab at designing my own shoes or wallet.
Five Best Card Holders For Men
When you want to travel light or avoid an ugly bulge in your jacket or hip pocket the card holder is the ideal way to transport your credit cards and cash for a night out or a business dinner.
Card holders normally store either four or six cards and have a center pocket that is stitched closed or in some cases left open on one side. The best one’s in my view are the simplest designs that rely upon top grade materials and craftsmanship to justify their place in your wardrobe.
Here is my selection:
Louis Vuitton-Their simple yet chic card holder in Epi leather slips easily into a pocket. It holds credit cards, transport cards or business cards in its three slots.
Tom Ford-Alligator skin credit card holder with internal lining in calf leather. Easy on the eye square shape, elegant and fashionable.
Bottega Veneta-Made from beautiful, hand-crafted intrecciato leather, this compact case is perfect for carrying cards or bills. With slender and elegant lines, the design comes with 1 main compartment and 6 credit card slots.
Bianca Mosca– Classic slim cardholder perfect for storing credit and business cards. 3 credit card slots on each side and a middle slip pocket for receipts and tickets. Shown here in Havana Brown matte alligator with a Dark Brown goatskin interior and Sky Blue contrast stitching. Handmade in France. Fully customisable online
Valextra-Grained calfskin leather credit card holder detailed with six card slots and Valextra’s ‘costa’ laquered piping.
Men Now Buy 20% Of All Luxury Handbags
A new study conducted by Bianca Mosca, known for its ultra luxury bags and accessories made from Louisiana alligator, reveals that so called “Man Bags” including totes, duffels, clutches, backpacks, messenger and bowling bags now represent one in five of all sales in the global $35 billion luxury handbag market.
Despite the reported slowdown in China and recent setbacks in the global luxury market the 2016 outlook for luxury men’s bags has never been brighter.
According to Bianca Mosca’s estimate the aggregate value of men’s bag sales by value has more than doubled in the last decade with men now spending over $7 billion a year on luxury bags.
Yet whilst volumes have been growing at 5% per annum the amount spent per unit has been climbing by 10% a year leading to the conclusion that men are spending substantially more on each bag they are purchasing.
The study goes on to forecast that global expenditure on men’s luxury bags will rise to $10 billion by 2020 with just under 9 million units sold.
A Bianca Mosca spokesperson said:
“A major part of the rise can be explained by the growth in the numbers of metrosexual men who are becoming more comfortable carrying handbags that are quite unlike the briefcases of yesteryear and are willing to spend serious sums of money to acquire a fashionable accessory”
A further factor impacting the prices of luxury bags is the pressure on raw material costs particularly for the type of premium exotic leathers used by Bianca Mosca. The price of first grade unblemished Louisiana alligator skins has increased by 12% a year for the past three years and is forecast to continue growing as demand for exotic materials continues to outstrip demand at the top end of the luxury market.
Bianca Mosca which this year is celebrating the 70th anniversary of its founding in 1946, will be launching a new range of men’s handbags, briefcases, weekend bags and clutches in Spring ‘16.
Inquiries: tim@biancamosca.com
The Five Best Wallets For Men
There’s something about the debut of a New Year that calls out for refreshing one’s wardrobe and accessories.
When it comes to wallets and cardholders there is a bewildering array of possibilities from the everyday leather and canvas up to exotic skins such as alligator and python.
Moti Ankari my colleague at Bloomberg Pursuits has come up with a great selection including iPhone Cases cases that double as wallets.
You can read his post here: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2016-01-06/best-wallets-for-men-bi-folds-to-money-clips-to-iphone-hybrids
Why Is The Best Alligator Leather So Expensive?
This is a question I’m often asked and it’s always difficult to give a simple answer. As usual I turn to the expert in these matters, namely Tim de Rosen from Bianca Mosca that makes probably the best alligator bags and accessories in the market.
Selection
The first criterion is selecting appropriate skins from the tannery. This has become extremely challenging of late as the demand for prime grade unblemished skins has soared on demand from the major fashion houses who are increasing the proportion of exotic skins used in their high fashion collections.
In order to counter this problem groups such as LVMH and Hermes have bought their own tanneries in order to “lock in” the best availability of skins.
As a result the prices of larger and perfect skins (i.e. more than 30cm in width) is increasing by 10% a year, piling the pressure on retail prices. Of course it’s possible to buy products made from the skins rejected by the major players but they will never be as appealing or tactile as those made from prime skins.
Dyeing and Processing
This is the most critical aspect of turning the tanned “crust” into a useable skin for making finished items.
“Skins are solid dyed, before a pigment-based surface treatment is applied to highlight the beauty of the material. Working on skins involves an alchemy that evolves constantly thanks to the innovations introduced by the Manufacture. This total control of production makes it possible to meet requests for customised items” says de Rosen of Bianca Mosca.
Quality control systems involve numerous laboratory tests on products to check their resistance to rubbing, UV rays, pulling and twisting, as well as their hypoallergenic qualities. All of this adds to the expense of producing the best products.
Manufacturing
Making products from alligator is a time consuming and labor intensive activity. It takes many years of specialised training to attain the required levels of proficiency to make even a seemingly simple article such as a credit card holder.
Constructing alligator leather products is a very different endeavour than making products from cow leather and special tools and routines need to be employed in order to work the skins effectively and to ensure a fine result.
Bag making is altogether a higher art form and requires not just experience but also sensitivity for form and function as each piece is made over many hours entirely by hand from a paper pattern.
In France and Italy where the best workshops are located salaries and social costs are very high adding a large part to the costs of making these high quality products.
Durability and Longevity
There is no material that compares to Louisiana alligator leather. It has strength, durability and resistance to moisture, heat and light whilst also managing to be extraordinary supple and soft to the touch.
Over time alligator matures as it’s used and acquires a unique patina.
With proper care it should last a lifetime helping to underpin the relatively high price paid at the outset.
Top 10 Luxury Gifts For Xmas 2015
With Santa spinning his wheels for his 2015 World Tour our attention turns to what might turn up at the foot of the bed come Xmas Day.
Here are a few modest trinkets that would be most welcome in my stocking this year.
1.Michel Cluizel Dark Chocolate 85%. My favorite chocolate from the famed Parisien chocolatier.
2. Jacques Selosse “Substance” Champagne. A very unusual and rare Solera-style wine. 97 points WA.
3. Bianca Mosca wallet in alligator with a goatskin lining. Delectable and butter smooth handmade perfection.
4. Elie Bleu fountain pen orange sycamore. Part of the fruit wood collection.
5. Connor NYC stationery. Superlative hand-engraved stationery.
6. Brora Trilby. In wool and leather. Also in navy.
7. Thorsun Fan swim trunks. Perfect for New Year in St. Barts
8. Rose Bespoke Tie. Screen-printed motifs, crests and inscriptions of your choice.
9. Bresciani cotton socks. Sublime comfort and Italian style.
10. Derek Rose silk pajamas. Seductive and elegant.
Top 10 Luxury Travel Accessories
When you travel a lot you always need to think carefully before packing about which essential things you’re going to need to have with you. The problem for most people, including me, is that space is at a premium especially if you want to travel light and carry your bag with you instead of checking it in at the airport.
I’ve learned the hard way that it’s often better to spend some money on really high quality products that last (almost) forever than on cheaper items that will often let you down. Poor quality accessories tend to break down and can look awful after minimal use whereas those that are truly luxurious can acquire a special patina with age.
Here are a few of my favourite things:
1. Elie Bleu Cigar Case
It’s increasingly difficult to find suitable (and lawful) places to smoke whilst travelling but when you do find the ideal place (as I did recently at the Bulgari Hotel in Milan) it’s essential to carry your precious Cubans in some style. Elie Bleu, based in Paris, is well known for their divine cigar humidors with elaborate marquetry but they also make superb traveling cigar cases in beautiful leathers including stingray.
2. Morphie iPhone Charger
Possibly the most frustrating thing when travelling is to run out of “juice” when your iPhone gives up the ghost as it inevitably will. Morphie’s Juice Pack Reserve for the iPhone 6 and 6s is just the job and is the most compact charger the firm has ever produced.
3. B &W Portable Headphones
Audiophiles will argue till the cows come home but to my mind there’s no substitute in terms of value for money and effectiveness-Bowers and Wilkins are superb at everything auditory. Their P3 Mobile Hi Fi speakers are light, comfortable and gorgeous to admire in their lovely blue case. Just the ticket for pounding the pavements on your early morning run.
4. Philips Sonic Care Diamond Clean Toothbrush
I’ve been cleaning my teeth with electric toothbrushes for years but most models are not easily portable. This Philips model comes in a specially designed and compact easy to pack format. And it works a treat.
5. Bianca Mosca Zippy Travel Pouch
I’ve always had a soft spot for Bianca Mosca’s divine hand sewn alligator wallets and accessories and the Zippy is no exception. Measuring a compact 4.3 by 7 inches it is capable of packing a big punch with space for 8 credit cards, business cards, a coin compartment, cash and tickets and will even accommodate your passport. It’s available in 14 wonderful colors and a choice of stitching. Bianca Mosca will even emboss your initials free of charge!
6. Acqua di Parma Colonia
“The Colonia legend is closely tied to the world of Italian tailors, the home of impeccable elegance, where class is expressed in prestige fabrics, perfect cuts, the sophisticated balance of muted colours and attention to detail. Down to the final and indispensable touch of class: a spray of Colonia before handing over the made to measure suit. A sensory hallmark of a style of dressing that is also a lifestyle. Colonia is the original fragrance that embodies classic elegance and long tradition”. That’s what they say at Acqua di Parma and I couldn’t put it better. An essential ingredient even for a short trip is to smell your best. The classic Colonia in a convenient travel size does the trick-perfectly.
7. Patek Phillipe 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
A most unexpected but none the less delightful addition to the PP range earlier this year. The 5524 model is based on old Patek Philippe hour angle watches that helped pilots calculate their position when used in tandem with a sextant and a radio. I’m not exactly a pilot but I appreciate the wonderful heritage of this beautiful watch that incidentally reminds me of the time at home. Just wished they had made it in a more affordable steel version.
8. Berluti Andy loafers
Is there anything more glorious than stepping out in a pair of Berluti demesure handcrafted shoes named after the legendary Andy Warhol? Not to my mind. Supreme comfort and oozing style and savoir faire.
9. Leica X2
iPhone cameras are all very well-even with the new 12 megapixel one on the iPhone 6s but there is no real substitute for a proper camera such as the marvelous X2. The Leica features the latest sensor technology and the fast 35mm Leica Elmarit lens. Made from the highest quality materials the camera offers simple operation and manual adjustment possibilities.
10. Louis Vuitton Pégase 55 Business
Finally, here is the essential bag to carry your favorite items. Although much imitated this really is the business. The Pégase 55 moves smoothly (and noiselessly) from business to pleasure and back again. This cabin-sized case holds everything in impeccable order, thanks to multiple compartments and zippered pockets.
The Signet Ring Is Back
Signet rings are making a comeback according to a recent post on Bloomberg Pursuits. According to Bloomberg staffer Nic Screws the new Guy Ritchie movie-The Man from U.N.C.L.E. has inspired younger men to emulate the denizens of New York’s crusty clubs and college fraternities by donning the pinkie finger rings.
The best rings tend to be made from 14kt gold as it’s tougher than 18kt and brighter than it’s 9kt sibling. As to color that’s a matter of personal preference although personally I’m partial to white gold for it’s low key appearance. None the less rose gold could look cool especially if you have a watch in the same hue.
Traditionally, men had their school, club or college crest engraved on their ring. On the other hand if you aspire to the join the aristocracy why not use your family’s coat of arms? A number of purveyors of signet rings allow you search among thousands of crests and coats of arms online.
The best rings come from England and in particular from Ruffs, Dexter and Rebus-all traditional makers and superlative in the art of engraving. You can opt for deep decorative engraving or if you want to seal documents in wax then go for reverse engraving so that when your ring is impressed into the hot wax a positive image will appear.
Bolivar Libertador Cuban Cigar
The Libertador is a big beast. Have no doubt. It’s the same size as the legendary Cohiba Sublimes Limited Edition of 2004 and the Montecristo Sublimes 2008. The ring gauge is a thick 54 with a length of 6.4 inches.
The Bolivar was introduced by Habanos in 2013 as an LCDH release following an earlier outing in 2006/7 as a French RE. The first release met with cautious approval as it was deemed a little young but the vitola has now clearly got into it’s stride and is becoming a serious challenger to it’s senior cousins the MC and the Cohiba.
First appearances are good with a wonderful colorado maduro wrapper with a lovely oily appearance. Unlit the draw is very good. First impressions after lighting are of cream, chocolate and spice. There is also a certain earthiness that whilst not bold underlines its heritage as a member of the Bolivar family. As the enjoyment of this stick progresses it is apparent that this is a medium to full bodied Havana that has plenty of capacity for further ageing. Smoking duration is about one and a half to two hours.
Some reviewers have pointed out that the Libertador is not unlike the Corona Gigantes. I’m not sure there is any similarity other than a general resemblance to the rest of the Bolivar family. If anything I would suggest a touch of the Belicosos Finos-especially those from SLB’s.
Overall this is could be a great cigar and whilst it is currently scoring in the early 90’s I feel quite confident that it is capable of reaching the upper 90’s (perhaps even 97-98) after 4 or 5 years of careful storage.
Price wise a lot depends on where you are buying. The Spanish street price is €15 whereas online I have seen them priced between €16 and €22.
The Bespoke Dandy 