Choosing the right dress shirt is never easy especially when you might wish to alternate between wearing a tie and going tieless. Well now Turnbull & Asser the venerable and storied bespoke shirtmaker from Jermyn Street in London’s tony St. James’ district has got your back covered-quite literally!
Their new Marcella dress shirt sports all of the heritage that we’ve come to expect from T &A: the single-needle stitching throughout, for both its fine finish and its strength. There is the gusset, which reinforces the side seams. The buttons, which are cut from the deepest part of mother-of-pearl shell, and affixed with a wax thread and cross-lock stitch, so one won’t unravel into your hand as you’re dressing late for a meeting (in fact, Turnbull & Asser is so confident its buttons are securely fixed it doesn’t supply spares).
Many of the two-ply, 120-thread-count cloths, woven in Italy, are exclusive. The collar – something of a signature – is made with a floating, rather than fused, bias-cut inter-lining, to ensure it doesn’t bubble and stays down, the edge gently curved to ensure it sits well on the collar bone. And, to return to numbers, while shirt buffs like to talk of a two-part or split yoke, a Turnbull & Asser yoke is made of four parts, to give a flexibility across the upper back.
As well as being superbly constructed the new Marcella shirt is slim fit with a Regent collar that’s less formal than a cutaway and three button sleeves that can just as easily be worn with a tie or open neck for a more casual dressed down appearance.