You can read all about Bianca Mosca’s new handmade Weekend 45 and City 24 bags on http://robbreport.com/LuxuryNewswire/fashion/handcrafted-new-italian-bags-work-and-weekends
Handcrafted New Italian Bags
2016
The Perfect Weekend Bag
The august members of France’s L’Académie française are aghast. Any form of corruption of the French language is frowned upon especially the intrusive introduction of Anglo Saxon compound words or phrases. Yet the expression “Le Weekend” has entered the French lexicon despite the best efforts of the language’s guardians.
For others the word weekend signifies the beginning of a brief holiday period to be spent in luxurious surroundings and possibly a romantic location.
Packing for such a brief trip presents a dilemma as space will surely be at a premium. Certainly, a stylish bag is an absolute necessity for the true dandy and his companion.
With this in mind I set out on a quest to find the perfect weekend bag. An essential requirement is that the core material needs to be a high quality yet relatively lightweight and supple leather. Taurillon is a type of baby bull leather with a lightly grained appearance and is extremely luxurious to the touch. It’s strong, hard wearing and ages beautifully. It’s used principally by ultra premium brands such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton for their top of the range models.
A particular bug bear of mine is the quality of metal fittings used for closures, buckles and locks. A great looking bag can be let down badly if these are of an inferior type. Solid brass coated with a heavy plating of palladium is the gold standard (if that’s not an oxymoron).
Size is important, so I’m told, and the perfect bag needs to fit the highly restrictive regime employed by airlines these days. So 45cm width is the maximum permitted unless of course you’re one of the lucky one’s who are flying privately.
Design-wise my preference is for maximum use of space rather than lots of fiddly pockets and hidden storage spaces.
Whilst carrying out my research I heard that Bianca Mosca were on the verge of introducing a new range of luxury bags for men. When I contacted Tim de Rosen, their CEO, he confirmed that one of the bags being developed was a weekend bag.
Well here is the very first preview of that bag which ticks all my boxes. It’s made from Taurillon leather, has palladium plated brass fittings, a width of 45cm and is certainly a handsome and capacious piece that fits my bill perfectly. The only problem is that it won’t be available to buy for a few months yet or should I say several weekends to come.
I’ll Do It My Way
Mass customisation is on the rise. But it’s nothing new. For a couple of hundred years bespoke tailors and shoe makers have been plying their wares in the so called “Carriage Trade”.
Today’s fashion consumers are looking for greater degrees of personalisation than merely the ability to add a monogram of their initials. Nike, Adidas and RayBan are proving in the mass market that the ability to mix your own combination of colours and options is highly appealing to a broad swathe of their customers.
In the luxury market there are still only a handful of brands beginning to innovate. Late last year Salvatore Ferragamo the legendary Italian shoe maker introduced a MTO (made to order) programme for their classic men’s Driver loafers. The initiative has been highly successful and Ferragamo are considering extending the concept to other parts of their product line up.
In the small leather goods and accessories field Bianca Mosca which specialises in bespoke alligator wallets, card holders, Apple Watch bands and iPhone cases offers a full custom service on its website. Customers can choose leather colours, stitching types as well as having their initials embossed on their product. The finished product is made in their workshop in France and delivered around the world inside 28 days.
“The key thing is service and listening closely to your customers to ensure that you’re delivering what they want-not what you think they want,” said Tim de Rosen from Bianca Mosca.
Well I know what I want and given the choice I’d love to have a stab at designing my own shoes or wallet.
The Noel Coward Look
The 1920’s heralded a sea change in fashion, music and lifestyle culminating in the smooth refined aesthetic of the 1930’s much in the same way that the epoch of France’s Louis XV produced a richer and more sumptuous version of luxury living than that of his grandfather the Sun King, Louis IV.
Nobody epitomises the mood of the 1930’s more than the actor, singer and playwright Noel Coward known by the soubriquet-The Master-who was by then at the height of his powers and described by Time magazine as possessing “a sense of personal style, a combination of cheek and chic, pose and poise”.
When one conjures an image of Coward it is inevitably of him lounging in a silk dressing gown engaging in rapid fire repartee surrounded by a coterie of bright, young acolytes and fellow wits.
Silk is enjoying a moment with the recent arrival of decorative patterns on lavish silks, modern satins and even fine linen shirting heralding a sea change in men’s style.
Dolce & Gabbana, Hermès and Gucci have launched new designs in silk including light weight jackets and flamboyant geometric patterned shirts inspired by Corbusier in the case of Berluti.
These louche peacock patterns chime with the vibe of 1930’s Berlin androgyny and call for accessories that fit the piece.
For me Boucheron’s deco shaped Reflet watch with its striking alligator watch band and gorgeous white and sapphire dial is the epitome of androgynous statement. Paired with a bee-incrusted pyjama two-piece set it might seem a bit outré for some of us chaps, but – mark my words – it may well prove to be the ultimate evening wear at this Summer’s most elegant parties.
Five Best Card Holders For Men
When you want to travel light or avoid an ugly bulge in your jacket or hip pocket the card holder is the ideal way to transport your credit cards and cash for a night out or a business dinner.
Card holders normally store either four or six cards and have a center pocket that is stitched closed or in some cases left open on one side. The best one’s in my view are the simplest designs that rely upon top grade materials and craftsmanship to justify their place in your wardrobe.
Here is my selection:
Louis Vuitton-Their simple yet chic card holder in Epi leather slips easily into a pocket. It holds credit cards, transport cards or business cards in its three slots.
Tom Ford-Alligator skin credit card holder with internal lining in calf leather. Easy on the eye square shape, elegant and fashionable.
Bottega Veneta-Made from beautiful, hand-crafted intrecciato leather, this compact case is perfect for carrying cards or bills. With slender and elegant lines, the design comes with 1 main compartment and 6 credit card slots.
Bianca Mosca– Classic slim cardholder perfect for storing credit and business cards. 3 credit card slots on each side and a middle slip pocket for receipts and tickets. Shown here in Havana Brown matte alligator with a Dark Brown goatskin interior and Sky Blue contrast stitching. Handmade in France. Fully customisable online
Valextra-Grained calfskin leather credit card holder detailed with six card slots and Valextra’s ‘costa’ laquered piping.
The Best Underwear In the World?
Quite a claim but when it comes to men’s underpinnings there is one name that stands head and shoulders above the fray: Zimmerli of Switzerland.
Some of their styling may be a tad old fashioned but the construction, materials and quality are undeniable.
Take the Pureness Closed Fly Front. It’s made from natural beech-tree cellulose called micro modal – similar to cotton but made from reconstituted cellulose fibres. It’s more environmentally friendly than cotton, absorbs moisture faster and is finer than silk.
Each piece of Zimmerli underwear involves carefully calibrated human intervention from design to cutting, sewing and inspection. The attention to detail is some of the best I’ve witnessed in luxury fashion manufacturing.
The Best Luxury Sneaker Brands of 2016
High-end sneaker brands are having a moment. Having become almost ubiquitous you now see them in the most unlikely places: on the red carpet and even on Wall Street. So before pulling the trigger on your next pair you need to read our primer on how to maintain your street cred by choosing from the hottest purveyors of luxury kicks around.
EPAULET
Founded in Brooklyn in 2008 and with a price range of $195-$400. A great value, unbranded in-house line using shell cordovan and with a variety of styles
ETQ Amsterdam
The Dutch contender has designed a nice minimalist range of sneakers made in Portugal from calf leather and suede that compete favorably with top end brands.
BUTTERO
Made in Tuscany and priced from $325-$480 Buttero is a well know shoe maker that has turned its hand to creating some of the best ageing footwear out there.
MAISON MARGIELLA
With naughty boy John Galliano at the wheel, MM’s sneakers which cost from $470-$1200 are based on a reincarnation of a German army trainer but don’t let that put you off as the variety of materials and finishes is beyond reproach.
LANVIN
Designer Lucas Ossendrijver is at the helm of Lanvin’s menswear and shoe collections which range in price from $490-$700. The result is a signature toe-cap style sneaker with the elegance of a traditional shoe and a thicker sole than most of its competitors.
BALENCIAGA
Balenciaga’s two signature sneakers are a hiking boot-like Arena, with D-ring eyelets and the Pleated High-Top, with its horizontal panels on the upper. Both shoes are statement pieces and have achieved cult status via a combination of key celebrity showings and the fact that they look really cool, which makes them something that sneaker heads appreciate
BIANCA MOSCA
Perhaps the ultimate “kicks” handmade in Italy from prime grade Louisiana alligator leather. Street style is given a luxurious twist with these superbly comfortable and effortlessly elegant luxury sneakers with solid brass eyelets and custom rubber soles.
How To Choose A Luxury Watchband
Whilst choosing a replacement watchstrap will change the look of your wristwatch selecting the right one can be a challenge.
Here are some of the factors you should consider when shopping for a new band.
Carefully examine the band you’re replacing: You may well be looking for the same or a similar strap to the one you wore previously but you could also enhance the appearance of your watch by getting a new watchband in a different color or material. It’s important to make sure that you measure the length and width of your old band so you can be certain that your new band will fit correctly. Another important measurement is the height of the padding in the band. A chunky watch such as a Rolex will look better with 5mm padding whereas an ultra thin Piaget is better paired with a flat strap with no padding at all.
Check how your current strap attaches: You’ll need to search for a new watchband that attaches in the same way as your existing strap and that fits flush with the lugs. You may well need a special tool to change the strap, or you may prefer to take it to a jeweler to get the job done for you.
Set your price point: Dependent upon how much you may wish to spend, watch band replacements can be inexpensive or highly priced. If you are seeking a truly luxurious option there is no substitute for Louisiana alligator leather as used by such prestigious watch brands such as Patek Phillippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. If alligator is your material of choice there are no better straps than those made by the master craftsmen of France. The best French watchbands such as those made by luxury goods brand Bianca Mosca are made from the finest square scale alligator skin and are entirely handmade and hand sewn. You can choose from a multitude of colors, matte or shiny finishes and even select the color of the stitching.
Examine your lifestyle: If you are planning on taking your watch near to water, consider getting a durable backing for your strap made from rubber. For something to complement a dress watch alligator bands are usually your best option. Buying watchbands made from quality materials will make any watch look more luxurious and draw admiring glances.
New Men’s Knits From Inis Meáin
Inis Meáin is one of the Aran Islands that are strewn across the mouth of Galway Bay off the west coast of Ireland.
For centuries, the fishermen’s garments have been knitted by the women of the island. Knitting was just one of a number of skills that islanders had to learn and to master, to create a way of living in a very inhospitable place.
From this island, the Inis Meáin range is exported all over the world. All of their clothes bear the symbol of the upturned currach. The currach is the islanders’ fishing boat or canoe, made from tarred canvas stretched across a wooden frame. There is no natural protection from the Atlantic, so the fishermen must carry their craft up from the shore after every voyage.
Structured cardigans are proving to be a growing trend and Inis Meáin’s hand knits are excellent examples of the genre.
Their new styles are knitted in the finest yarns – Wool, Cashmere, Baby Alpaca, Linen, Silk etc. sourced from the finest mills in Europe and South America. Subtle colours, inspired by land and sea, which reflect the landscape and seasons.
The Atelier Approach
Paraffection S.A. is the subsidiary of Chanel that was established in 1997 to preserve the heritage, craft and manufacturing skills of a group of highly skilled fashion artisans working in specialist ateliers located mainly in the Paris region.
By 2015, Paraffection had acquired twelve “Atelier d’Art” or workshops capable of providing the parent company Chanel with the specialized skills required to decorate and embellish its haute couture creations.
“The driving force behind our decision to take over these companies was affection,” insists Paraffection director Dominique Barbiery. Cleverly, the Paraffection investments have been marketed as a labor of love.
‘Paraffection’ loosely translates to mean ‘for the love of”. Mr Barbiery states that Chanel’s relationship with its satellite firms is to “protect, advise and assist” the firms, not gobble them up, merge them or take over their work.
This year Chanel will celebrate its 13th Métiers d’Art show an annual event to honor the fine craftsmanship that its artisan partners in the Paraffection group bring to the house’s collections. With a runway show that takes place outside the traditional fashion schedule, each year, Chanel turns to a different location to pay tribute to the workshops that provide the house with everything from lace to silver buttons and fine embroidery work. After Salzburg last year, Dallas in 2013, Edinburgh in 2012 and previous shows in Mumbai and New York, Chanel headed to Rome for last season’s Métiers d’Art 2015, in the city’s Cinecittà film complex.
Chanel is not the only institution safeguarding French fashion. When, in 2012, the French lingerie manufacturer Lejaby announced plans to outsource production to Tunisia, then president Nicolas Sarkozy pledged to seek a solution. Lejaby was bought out by a French leather goods manufacturer that supplies Louis Vuitton, in a move overseen by Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and close friend of Sarkozy, who called the takeover part of “the battle for employment in France”.
Within the leather goods industry companies such as Hermès continue the tradition of artisan production at their atelier in Pantin near Paris where the prevailing sentiment is that of everlasting love: each bag is affectionately crafted by a single artisan from start to finish, which would explain why they only turn out two pieces a week. No leather-worker is allowed to intervene in another colleague’s bag and each individual has their own set of tools, which they eventually take home with them when they retire.
Similarly Bianca Mosca, known for it’s ultra luxury exotic and precious leather bags and accessories, is a close adherent of the atelier approach.
Visiting their fragrant workshops in Italy and France is a real sensory experience. Your eyes, your nose, you ears; they’re all part of a luxurious journey. First, it’s the tap-tap-tapping sound that rhythmically follows your every step, a sign of industrious hands at work. Then it’s the smell of the leather, from the simplest and supplest Taurillon leather to rare finds like Louisiana alligator in a rainbow of colors, all sourced by Bianca Mosca’s experienced leather-hunters.
What is clear is that making luxurious objects in the ancient traditions espoused by the true ateliers of France and Italy takes time-a lot of time.
“The end result is worth it” says Tim de Rosen of Bianca Mosca.
The Bespoke Dandy 