What Is The Difference Between Luxury And Bespoke

“Louis Vuitton has become too ordinary,” a billionaire woman told China Market Research Group. “Everyone has it. You see it in every restaurant in Beijing. I prefer Chanel or Bottega Veneta now. They are more exclusive.”

Gucci is similarly suffering from a reputation problem, while bespoke goods and less-well-known European labels are soaring in popularity amongst affluent buyers.

Exclusivity is the eternal watchword of the luxury goods industry. But in the digital age where information is ubiquitous how can luxury purveyors maintain the aura of being exclusive when their brands are in danger of becoming over exposed?

Bespoke items remain the ultimate luxury good.

The concept of bespoke dates back to the emergence of London’s Savile Row in the eighteenth century as the premier tailoring destination for men’s clothing, including suiting, shirts and shoes, designed for and made specifically to the measurements of each customer.

Over time, the term bespoke has evolved to gain a wider currency that today encapsulates any luxury product or experience that has been specifically tailored to the exact requirements of a customer. It is entirely separate from the over-worked expressions custom or made to measure whose meaning is to make certain adjustments to an existing design or pattern.

Bespoke is the epitome of the luxury experience and therefore inherently the most expensive option available.

Whether it’s a handmade suit from Brioni, a specially commissioned cigar humidor by Elie Bleu or an alligator bag from Bianca Mosca the ultra‐high‐end and bespoke category is a no‐limit segment where all the craziest dreams (and prices) come true.

“The brands bought are actually more important than the level of money earned,” HSBC managing director Erwan Rambourg wrote in his recent book, “The Bling Dynasty: Why the Reign of Chinese Luxury Shoppers Has Only Just Begun.”

Rambourg created a brand pyramid to show how major brands range in accessibility from everyday luxuries to ultra-high-end luxury and bespoke like Hermès and Bianca Mosca.

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What of the future? If it’s a safe bet now that tomorrow’s luxury consumer will seek brands that speak to their unique selves, further down the road, logic says it will go one step further: affluent consumers will demand solutions that can adapt on the fly to precisely the person they want to impress.

Bourbon In Your Sporran

I’m always a little suspicious of so called “travel exclusives” sold in Duty Free. Especially those being pushed by certain well known purveyors of Malt Whisky. With no age statements you’re never quite sure what’s in the bottle.

None the less I’ve been impressed by the recent offerings from Laphroaig, one of my two favourite makers from Islay where the peaty water lends a smokey flavour to a dram.

Having sampled the PX bottling with its first maturation in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks I was recently gifted a bottle of the QA. QA stands for Quercus Alba which translates into American oak. The first maturation starts with ex-bourbon barrels followed by a period spent in charred American white oak casks.

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It’s the second maturation which gives the whisky a mix of peat and  spicy vanilla notes. A lingering sweetness finishes with some interesting soft woodiness.

Whilst not as impressive as the aforementioned PX, the QA is a worthy addition to the Laphroaig line up and is certainly worth it’s $85 asking price.

 

Oh My Darling-Gifts For Your Valentine

Is the globe spinning faster on it’s axis or is it just me? With Christmas barely over here comes Valentine’s Night galloping into view.

Facing the perennial question of what to buy for your beloved whilst avoiding the cliche- ridden options of flowers and chocolates is a real dilemma.

Here are a few (hopefully) useful ideas….

HER

Whilst not inexpensive the gorgeous alligator wallets from Bianca Mosca will win you undying love and affection for life. Their handmade creations are crafted in a small family owned atelier deep in the French countryside and not far from the Swiss border. Something similar from Hermes would be almost as costly as a small car.

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No man (or woman for that matter) has ever gone wrong by proffering the gift of a well judged fragrance. Frédéric Malle’s Une Fleur de Cassie (£170 for 100ml EDP) – it uses both mimosa and cassie for a seductive blend that starts cool and powdery and ends in suede and spice is such a delight. Although not for all tastes it will be well received by sophisticates and experienced fragrance wearers.

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Emilio Pucci fans of which there are many will fall in love with the new Janis bag in Python and Suede that sports a UK price of £1320. Try the Pucci boutique or Matches Fashion in Marylebone High Street.

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HIM

As my legion of fans will recollect from previous posts I am a huge admirer of the venerable house of Turnbull & Asser owned by the retail titan and legendary hotelier Mohammed Al-Fayed.

One of my proudest possessions is a fabulously indulgent silk dressing gown that I acquired several years ago and which I maintain in a perfect state. Arriving at breakfast wearing such a piece is certain to arouse feelings of intense jealousy and envy from fellow guests. Just the feelings I seem to want to evoke-in my dreams!

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On a slight more modest note but none the less a delightful apercu of a gift Drake’s Bird of Paradise pocket square will prove it’s worth as a sublime addition to any elegant outfit.

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What could be more appropriate than a hat named for the famed Italian Master of the Art of Love, Casanova. The Sensi Studio Casanaova Hat is £156 and available from Sensi’s website. (Other colours available).

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It Makes Scents

Whilst in New York recently I was introduced to the intriguing fragrances developed by Ulrich Lang and Britt Biegelson.

Consisting of a tight range of four niche products they are distributed through a network of exclusive retailers including Barneys and Fortnums as well as online. Lang whose twin passions are photography and perfume started developing his eponymous range about 12 years ago.

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Recently launched Aperture (£125/$200 for 100ml EDP) was inspired by a photograph of a sunset taken by Olivia Bee, a 20-year-old photographer who is something of a sensation, having shot a campaign for Converse trainers when only 14 years old, as well as having worked for Hermès and The New York Times. With Aperture, Lang wanted to create a male fragrance that was “just the right side of dirty” – a tricky thing to bring off and which he does by dint of a large hit of civet and musk. The result is warm and powerful with a strong hint of danger – it is indubitably modern and very, very male.

 

Yamakazi Attack

Hot on the heals of Burn’s Night-the annual feast celebrating the Scots poet, whisky and haggis comes hot news from Japanese interloper Yamakazi, the maker of fine Japanese whisky.

Treacherous though it may seem to a true believer in the virtues of Scottish whisky, malts from Japan are having their moment in the sun.

Suntory’s Yamakazi has announced the imminent arrival of its bespoke Sherry Cask (£200 for 70cl) Limited Edition. The 2013 was awarded the moniker of Sherry of the Year by Jim Murray in his 2015 Whisky Bible so there are high expectations for the latest version which will hit the market next Monday February 1st.

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Yamakazi Chief blender Shinji Fukuyo points out that he “did not blend the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 for the novice”.  The result is an uncompromising, intense and tannic brew with a richness exploding with dried fruits, dark chocolate and spicy notes and a long, sophisticated finish.

There are a total of 5,000 bottles released for the world market so get in quickly with your order.

 

Time To Tone Up

Already the end of January beckons and the New Year resolve is weakening. What to do? Reboot and get myself some shiny new kit to exercise with.

If you’re looking for some really stylish (and yes quite expensive) exercise equipment to use at home take a look at the fitness products from Germany’s Hock Design.

Beautifully conceived and immaculately executed Hock uses only certified and sustainably grown wood, 303 grade non reactive stainless steel and Italian vegetable tanned leathers to create their dumbbells, hand weights, extenders, ropes and push up bars.

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They have wonderful names such as Robusto, Ropa and Pector and are gorgeous to look at and lust over.

The company was started in 2009 by designer Kristof Hock. Since then sales have quadrupled as the company has spread the word. Check ’em out.

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Men Now Buy 20% Of All Luxury Handbags

A new study conducted by Bianca Mosca, known for its ultra luxury bags and accessories made from Louisiana alligator, reveals that so called “Man Bags” including totes, duffels, clutches, backpacks, messenger and bowling bags now represent one in five of all sales in the global $35 billion luxury handbag market.

Despite the reported slowdown in China and recent setbacks in the global luxury market the 2016 outlook for luxury men’s bags has never been brighter.

According to Bianca Mosca’s estimate the aggregate value of men’s bag sales by value has more than doubled in the last decade with men now spending over $7 billion a year on luxury bags.

Yet whilst volumes have been growing at 5% per annum the amount spent per unit has been climbing by 10% a year leading to the conclusion that men are spending substantially more on each bag they are purchasing.

The study goes on to forecast that global expenditure on men’s luxury bags will rise to $10 billion by 2020 with just under 9 million units sold.

A Bianca Mosca spokesperson said:

“A major part of the rise can be explained by the growth in the numbers of metrosexual men who are becoming more comfortable carrying handbags that are quite unlike the briefcases of yesteryear and are willing to spend serious sums of money to acquire a fashionable accessory”

A further factor impacting the prices of luxury bags is the pressure on raw material costs particularly for the type of premium exotic leathers used by Bianca Mosca. The price of first grade unblemished Louisiana alligator skins has increased by 12% a year for the past three years and is forecast to continue growing as demand for exotic materials continues to outstrip demand at the top end of the luxury market.

Bianca Mosca which this year is celebrating the 70th anniversary of its founding in 1946, will be launching a new range of men’s handbags, briefcases, weekend bags and clutches in Spring ‘16.

 

https://www.biancamosca.com

Inquiries: tim@biancamosca.com

de Grisogono’s “New Retro” Wristwatches

I’ll always have a soft spot for Fawaz Gruosi, founder of the Geneva based high class jeweller de Grisogono. Having created a modern legend known for it’s extravagant creations he has hit the proverbial nail on the head with his latest man’s wristwatch which he’s dubbed the “New Retro”.

The description “handsome” doesn’t do justice to this masterpiece seven years in development.

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The New Retro re-defines the category of non-round watches with a truly unique design that is at the same time both simple yet truly elegant and sophisticated. With inspiration from the 1950’s schools of watch design the new watch provides a panoply of views from which to observe the passage of time.

The black lacquered crown is cleverly positioned above 12 o’clock, a neat and thought provoking change from the standard location. The dial is easily readable with Arabic style numerals. Cut outs at 3 and 9 o’clock give the impression that both the dial and movement are somehow suspended.

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The movement is a black PVD coated mechanical type. The New Retro comes in five versions including Pink and White gold as well as Stainless Steel. All versions are sold with a square scaled alligator watch strap.

Prices start at $15,000 for the steel version.

 

 

The Five Best Wallets For Men

There’s something about the debut of a New Year that calls out for refreshing one’s wardrobe and accessories.

When it comes to wallets and cardholders there is a bewildering array of possibilities from the everyday leather and canvas up to exotic skins such as alligator and python.

Moti Ankari my colleague at Bloomberg Pursuits has come up with a great selection including iPhone Cases cases that double as wallets.

You can read his post here: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2016-01-06/best-wallets-for-men-bi-folds-to-money-clips-to-iphone-hybrids